Make your own runes.....

Making Your Own Rune Set

by Jennifer Smith

Many important decisions need to be made when choosing a set of runes to use
for divination. The first of these must be whether to purchase a set or
make your own. While anything you create for yourself will always be better
attuned to your own energies, there is nothing wrong with using a good
quality store-bought set that has been chosen with care, especially when you
are just starting to learn about the runes. Making a good, properly
energized set of runes can be difficult, and unless you have both the manual
and the magical skills needed, you may not be entirely satisfied with the
results. In many cases, it may be preferable to buy a set and become
familiar with its use before attempting to make your own.

When you do feel ready to try making your own set of runes, the next
decision you must make is what material your runes should be made from.
Wood is usually considered traditional, both because of historical
references and because the shapes of the runes themselves tend to be best
suited to carving in wood. But aside from the question of historical
authenticity (which you may or may not consider important), there are
several practical considerations to be taken into account. The first of
these must be durability. A set of divinatory runes will be subjected to a
good deal of abuse in the process of being cast regularly, or even just
being carried around in a pouch. Clay runes (particularly the type commonly
available in commercial boxed sets) have a tendency to chip, crack and break
at the slightest provocation. Stone runes are somewhat more durable,
depending on the type of stone used and whether the runes are carved or
simply painted on. Wood, bone and antler runes are the most durable, but
again, if the rune symbols are merely painted on, they will eventually flake
off.

Once you have decided on a material, the next consideration when making a
set of runes should be size and ease of handling. I have found that a good
rule of thumb is this: if you cannot hold all the runes in your two hands,
they are probably too big. If you can hold all the runes in one closed
hand, they are probably too small. Some people like the weight of stone or
clay runes, while others prefer the lighter feel of wood. Try to avoid
sharp edges and corners that will dig into your hands when you are holding
them. Think about colour as well - will the runes be visible enough against
the background? Above all, go with your instincts. Remember, you will be
using these runes on an almost daily basis as you learn to cast them, so
make sure they 'feel right' to you. Shape is another consideration.
Ideally, the shape and design of a set of runes should reflect the material.
Antlers and small tree branches are most easily cut into round runes,
whereas bone and boards of wood are easier to cut into squares or
rectangles. Clay, of course, can be made into any shape you like. Just
make sure that if a face-up / face-down position is important in your
readings that you don't choose spherical or cylindrical runes!

While most commercially available runes are small round or rectangular
pieces, some people prefer using rune staves - long sticks from 3 to 12
inches in length, with the rune carved into one side which has been scraped
flat. They are usually made to be used only once and then discarded or
burned. This type of rune set may well be more historically valid than
most. However, rune staves require a very different casting technique from
the rune 'chips', because the staves themselves form runic patterns. Many
people find runestaves awkward to use, while others like the fact that they
can go out into the woods with nothing but a penknife and make themselves a
set of runes. I have never personally used a set of rune staves, but I know
several people who have reported great success with them.

Another factor in the design of a rune set is the way in which the runes are
marked on the pieces. As I have said before, paint has a tendancy to chip
or flake off with repeated use. Some good-quality enamel paints (or even
nail polish) will adhere well to some materials, and if they do start
flaking you can always try covering them with a laquer or even clear nail
polish. Unfortunately, this often has the effect of sealing off any natural
energy contained in the runes, and tends to make them magically 'cold'.
The best way to mark your runes is to carve them. Not only does this
guarantee their durability, but it can also make them much easier to read,
especially if you also paint inside the carved lines. There is also the
tradition of 'cutting' the runes being magically important. Unfortunately,
many people don't feel comfortable enough with a knife to attempt to carve
their runes, and if you are using stone, some rather specialized equipment
would be required. If you are one of those people who would probably end up
carving the rune into your thumb, you might want to consider either a
wood-burning tool or an electric moto-tool such as a Dremel or Fordham.

If you do want to try carving your own runes, here are a few tips:

1) Use a good, sharp wood-carving knife. The most efficient design is a
small v-shaped gouge, which will carve a straight, deep line with a minimum
of effort. If you don't have a v-gouge, use a well-sharpened pen knife.
DON'T try using a matte or 'Exacto' knife - the blade isn't nearly strong
enough and tends to be difficult to control.

2) If possible, carve the runes before you cut the wood into small pieces.
If this isn't possible, rig up an L-shaped back-stop so the rune piece won't
end up sliding all over the table.

3) Always cut away from you, and keep your fingers out of the way. Turn the
wood rather than trying to twist yourself around to carve each line.

An important step in finishing a set of runes (even a purchased set) is
'reddening' them, either with paint, stain, or your own blood. Blood is
considered a potent magical substance in most cultures, but particularly in
connection with runes and rune magic. It not only functions as an offering
or sacrifice, but also forms a deep connection between you and your runes.
If you feel a bit sqeamish about using your own blood, however, red ochre
(available in many art stores) is an acceptable and traditional substitute.
Or, mix just a couple of drops of blood into the ochre paint to 'spread it
out'. Whichever you choose, lay the pigment into the carved lines with a
fine brush, or dilute it, rub it over the whole rune and wipe the excess off
the surface. You may want to put some sort of protective finish on your
runes. I recommend an oil finish like Danish or tung oil. If you want
something heavier, use a good quality natural shelac if you can. It will
let your runes 'breathe' and shouldn't interfere with the flow of energy.
Try to avoid the more artificial finishes like urathane.

Whether you purchase your runes or make them yourself, it is important to
magically prepare them and attune them to your energies, either through
simple meditation and handling, or with a more formal ritual. The form of
this ritual is entirely up to you, but it should include the following elements:

1) Cleansing the runes (if they are store-bought) by burying them in salt or
in the ground for a few days. This should get rid of any unwanted residual
energies.

2) Calling upon the Gods or Spirits to witness the ritual and bless the runes.

3) Colouring / blooding the runes. This will be your symbolic sacrifice
and you personal connection to the runes. It gives them life.

4) Naming each rune. Names have a special power all their own, particularly
the names of the runes. Speak the name of each rune aloud, and visualize
the word becoming part of the rune.

This is only a basic outline. You can make your ritual as simple or as
elaborate as you wish.

About the author:

Jennifer Smith is the author of 'Raido, the Runic Journey', and the owner of
Tara Hill Designs, through which she sells her own handcrafted wood rune
sets, runic talismans, and other Nordic-inspired crafts.